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The history of the blazer is one of the most disputed piece of menswear in history. Even though both origins are from England, they are very different in nature . The effects can be seen in it's construction today. Today , I will be sharing about the history of the Single Breasted Blazers and it's cousin, the Double Breasted Blazer.
Before we begin, let's find out what defines a blazer .
Dictionary. com : " a sports jacket, usually a solid color or striped, having metal buttons and sometimes an insignia on the breast pocket, as one worn by a member of a club, school, or the like. "
Merriam Webster .com : " a sports jacket often with notched collar and patch pockets "
The Free Dictionary .com : " lightweight single-breasted jacket; often striped in the colors of a club or school"
American Heritage Dictionary : "A lightweight sports jacket having pockets and notched lapels."
(American Heritage® Dictionary of the English Language, Fifth Edition. Copyright © 2011 by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved)
All of them sounds very different doesn't it ? Is any one of them accurate ? Unfortunately , none of them are accurate. To the general public they may seem fair enough, but personally, I feel that none of them accurately describes a blazer. Here's my defination of a blazer :
1. It is an odd jacket, meant to be worn with contrasting trousers
2. Can be in Single or Double Breasted
3. Defining hallmarks are usually the contrasting buttons on the front and the sleeves . Usually made from Gold / Silver, but buttons made from Brass, Pewter, Corozzo , Horn , Enamel , White / Smoked mother-of-pearl , wood , family heirlooms can be found too.
4. Usually in a solid color , usually in Navy , Crimson Red , Bottle Green or BOLD Stripes , not Pencil- Stripes, not Pin Stripes or Chalk stripes.
5. May be associated with Clubs or Schools but not a requirement .
6. Crests representing the club, family , position or group may be found near the welt pocket at the top left hand corner of the jacket.
7. May be made from Worsted Wool , Flannel, Cotton , Linen , Hop-sack, Fresco and Velvet.
8. May come in Structured or Unstructured construction
9. On the Single Breasted Blazer , contrasting piping on the lapel and pocket can sometimes be found , even though it is commonly associated with cricket clubs
10. Usually has a Nautical feel of the jacket.
Single Breasted Blazer
The Single Breasted Blazer originates from Cambridge- Oxford Boat Race. Specifically , the Saint John College 's boat club : Lady Margret Boat Club of the 1825 . They wore Scarlet Red Flannel Jackets that were Single Breasted with gold buttons . Those with First May Colors had Gold Piping on the lapels . While Second May were only allowed to wear silver buttons with no Piping . Purists at that time once wrote a heated comment to the London Daily Newspaper regarding their use of the name on 22 August 1889.
" In your article of to-day‥you speak of ‘a striped red and black blazer’, ‘the blazer’, also of ‘the pale toned’ ones.‥ A blazer is the red flannel boating jacket worn by the Lady Margaret, St. John's College, Cambridge, Boat Club. When I was at Cambridge it meant that and nothing else. It seems from your article that a blazer now means a colored flannel jacket, whether for cricket, tennis, boating, or seaside wear."
Well , that brought the point across loud and clear !
The Construction
1. Single Breasted
2. Soft Shoulders*
3. Single Vented*
4. 2-3 sleeve buttons
5. Made from flannel
6. Notched Lapel
7. minimal canvass*
* The following is only true if the jacket is for a boating event or Ivy League. Sources have shown some Single Breasted jackets with structured shoulders and built up chest canvassing coming out of Savile Row.
Double Breasted Blazer
The Double Breasted Blazer has its origins from British Tailoring , notice , I mentioned and emphasized British , the Double Breasted Blazer originated from Savile Row and no where else. It has it's origins from the Reefer Jacket and the Peacoat. The history dates back to the British Empire's Era of Exploration. What happens was that the British Empire would have sailors at sea , almost all year round , exploring new places in often times very harsh conditions, be it on board the ship or on land. The tailors in Savile Row designed a jacket made specifically for that purpose. The reefer jacket, made up of thick and heavy flannel , serves as perfect protection against the wind , snow and rain. added with the double breasted construction ( the left side of the jacket overlaps into the right ) the jacket provides warmth in the cold Atlantic . The jacket is also a symbol of rank, the captain of the ship and other high post, commanding officers would wear a reefer jacket , while the rest of the crew would wear a pea coat instead.
( Prince William in a Reefer Jacket )
In 1837, Queen Victoria came on board the frigate H.M.S Blazer for a Royal Navy Inspection . In an effort to dress up the crew, Commander John Middleton Waugh sought to Savile Row for a short , double breasted jacket, with Brass Royal Navy Buttons and matching trousers made from navy serge wool. While some recounts the blazer to be made in Navy and White stripes , the majority of sources points towards a solid navy blue serge .
( Prince William in a double breasted blazer with matching trousers. Notice the similarities between the blazer and the Reefer Jacket )
To sum it up, the blazer is one of the most debated piece of menswear out there because of it's divided history. In levels of formality, it falls between a sports jacket ( of which we discussed in the previous article ) and a full suit. It is a timeless , versatile piece of menswear to own. Do note that the Double Breasted Blazer is more formal than a Single Breasted Blazer and will be a little less versatile.
Stay tuned for the next article where I show you what to wear with a navy blazer, in Single and Double Breasted construction !
Until next time ,
Stay Dapper !
Cheong Gin Hao