No tags yet.
One of the most wonderful things about classic menswear , as compared to woman's wear , is that alot of the pieces in menswear are made for function first, fashion second. The good looks that you get at at the end of the day, is simply like your clothes giving you a fist bump for a dapper job well done. In an attempt to help you up your style game and know your why when dressing sharp, today , I've come up with a blog series of the History of classic menswear pieces and how it has evolved in today's context.
Today, we will be exploring the history of one of the oldest pieces of classic menswear. The Sports Jacket.
The Sports Jacket's history goes all the way back to the 15th Duke of Norfolk with the Norfolk jacket. A form fitting, heavy tweed coat used primarily for hunting. The theorey was , the Norfolk jacket was made popular by King Edward VII. However, there is no concrete evidence of it today.
Soon after, the Norfolk Jacket developed to the shooting jacket. With some of the distinctive features that both protected the wearer and allowed a free range of movement at the same time. Some of the features include :
1. pleates at the back of the jacket
2. leather/ suede elbow patches at the lapel and sleeves
3. Heavy tweed fabric
4. sport lapel
5. center vent
The functions are as follow
1. The pleates allow the jacket to open up when the hunter is aiming the rifle.
2.The leather / thick suede patches protected the hunter from falls
3. The heavy tweed offers ultimate protection from the cold weather and also the dangers in the woods such as vines and splinters
4. The sport lapel , enforced by thick leather , is able to close up around the neck of the wearer , protecting the hunter from wild animal bites and scratches
5. The center vent allowed the jacket to open up on both sides of the horse when the hunter sits on the horse.
( credits : pininterest)
The sports jacket today carrys some of the style features of the hunting jacket , even though for the most part, the details are mostly decorative.
(modern sports jacket heavily influenced by the hunting jacket. Notice the suede elbow patches and the suede under the lapel)
Today, sports jackets can be made up of just about any type of fabric possible, from cotton to tweed , from fresco to flannel. It all comes down to personal preference. You can buy sport jackets made up of anything, but my advice is to steer away from a fabric that is too dressy : ie: solid charcoal gray worsted wool, solid black worsted wool, anything pinstripe , chalk stripe ... basically anything that seems like it clearly comes from a suit. That is always not the best look.
Can I wear my Suit Jacket as a sport coat ?
Quick answer : depends.
1. Fabric
2. Details
Fabric
As mentioned , if the fabric is too dressy , the look will not be ideal as it will look like an orphaned suit jacket.The look is ultimately going to be bad. For sport coats , i would highly recommend a slightly more casual fabric such as cotton, linen, seersucker, fresco , hopsack etc. Or , if you live in a cooler climate, tweed and flannels are great options as well. Just steer away from fabrics such as silk, solid wool, cashmere and other dressy fabrics.
Details
The devil is in the details. This is especially true when it comes to sport jackets. For your sport jacket, I would recommend looking out for details such as
1. Patch pockets
2. Notched lapel/ sport lapel
3. Single Breasted
1. Patch Pockets
Originated from France, the patch pocket allows easy access to the contents in the pockets. It is the most casual pocket option of a jacket available. It is the easiest to construct and the easiest to remove when significant length needs to be removed from the jacket.
credits:
http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/patch-pocket-sport-jacket/
2. Notched / Sport lapel
The notched lapel is one of the most common lapel option . It is also one of the more casual lapel option next to the sport lapel. It is commonly accepted and it is quite elegant as well. While there are peaked lapel sports jackets out there , they are relatively rare and some people may find the look a little bit odd. I personally love the look , but if you are just starting out and you want to stay conservative and classic , go with the notched lapel
Sport lapel
The sport lapel is an oddity in jackets , it is even more rare if it is a suit jacket. You probably need to go custom if you are . It definately makes a statement. It originates from the original jacket and it will close up completely when the lapel is folded in. In my opinion, it is the most casual lapel option. To
credits : realmanrealstyle.com
3. Single Breasted
A double breasted sports jacket is out there, but they are rare and far between. Some people even said that "Mixing a sports jacket and double breasted is like mixing oil and water..... you just don't want to do it. " Is it really that bad? I doubt it. But I can see the rational behind the statement. The sports jacket is the most casual jacket out there and yet a double breasted is a more formal jacket construction. And so, there is a big contrast between the two types of options.
credits: http://media.details.com/photos/55e9d9b7f3c1bdcb2aee0dc2/master/pass/style-advice-rules-of-style-201110-double_breasted_blazers-style_brown_blazer_vss.jpg
There you have it, the sports jacket in detail. To sum it up, the sports jacket is one of the most versitile pieces of menswear you can have in your coset. They can transition seemlessly from your business events to your weekend looks. The sports jacket is in my opinion , one of the essentials of menswear items every man should own.
Until next time,
Stay dapper!
Cheong Gin Hao